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Gondar and the castles of Fasil Ghebbi

Ethiopia’s royal capital for two centuries: a walled enclosure of stone castles, a bath that fills once a year, and a church ceiling covered in angels. How to spend a day in Gondar.

Lalibela: a complete guide to the rock-hewn churches

Eleven churches cut down into the living rock eight centuries ago, still used every day. How the site is laid out, how many days to give it, and how to see it with a priest rather than a crowd.

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